Breakfast with the Iguanas – Far Side of the World – Magical Galápagos
Once you go, you know, there really is no place like the Galápagos! If I could sum up the Galápagos in one word it would be MAGICAL. With its distinct and friendly wildlife, untouched beaches, and delicious food; you’re in for a slice of paradise. After all, where else can you swim with iguanas, penguins, sea lions, and turtles in one afternoon? It’s on my list of FAVORITES. This is one destination I’ll return to.
‘And I think to myself…what a wonderful world.’
The Galápagos Islands are composed of 13 major islands, 6 minor islands and 40 islets. Only three of these islands are inhabited by people, of which the island of Santa Cruz has the largest population. Our family of three rented a villa in Puerto Ayora on the Island of Santa Cruz for one week. We spent the week kayaking with turtles, sailing to neighboring islands, relaxing at the beach, stalking turtles, and swinging in hammocks. Our villa was conveniently located to the meetinghouse for The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints. This branch was officially organized in 1998.
SANTA CRUZ ISLAND
There is much to see and do on this island! Upon arrival to the Itabaca Channel – from the airport – we went by boat to Santa Cruz Island where our driver was waiting for us in his 4×4 pickup truck. While on our 45 minute ride to Puerto Ayora, we passed by Los Gemelos, two big holes formed by the collapse of a magma chamber.
Puerto Ayora
Near to the Darwin Research Center is a rocky beach where our son threw rocks into the waves, as the sun was setting. It was a peaceful setting with only the sound of the waves and yellow warblers chirping. We left and walked along Charles Darwin Avenue. You might recall having studied Darwin’s theory of evolution, and his voyage around the tip of South America on the HMS Beagle to the Galápagos in the 1800’s, in your biology class. Perhaps it did not mean much to you, just like it did not mean much to me then. But now, after visiting the Galápagos and seeing the species in person; I’m a believer.
A wonderful surprise was how delicious the grilled food is in Puerto Ayora. And the ice cream is quite delicious as well. Visit the Beagle ice cream shop – rightly named for Darwin’s ship, the HMS Beagle – and take a walk along the pier. Nightly we spotted fish, seals, rays, and sharks playing in the water.
If you’re in Puerto Ayora on the weekend, you’re in for a real treat on the Caterpillar Train. For only $1.00 on the weekends this lively train on wheels takes locals – and adventurous tourists such as ourselves – on a 20 minute ride through the town while lively Latin music plays. I have to admit it was a blast, especially at the end of the journey when the driver went around in circles until I nearly puked!
Darwin Research Center
At the museum we learned about the evolution of the islands and species. For example, there are five types of sand found on the different islands, black sand, red sand, olivine sand, golden sand, and organic sand.
Following the museum we visited the turtle farm. In 2012, Lonesome George (with a neck three feet long) died. He was believed to be over 100 years old and the last known individual of the subspecies. When he was alive he was the rarest creature in the world. Attempts were made with two female turtles to produce offspring of his kind, but he was not able to. The research center is now used for incubating eggs from the Highlands and preserving those for future generations.
We followed a pathway past large turtles. Their age is measured by their size. Our young three year old was curious about two turtles climbing on each other. ‘What are they doing, Mama?’ He asked. ‘I think they’re just playing’, I replied as he giggled with delight while the one on top slide off of the one on the bottom. There were also yellow colored land iguanas to see, but the turtles were the coolest.
Tortuga Bay (2 days)
Breakfast with the Iguanas
Picnic basket in tow, we arrived at the trailhead to Tortuga Bay (just a three minute walk from our villa). While on the 45 minute pathway to the beach, we passed by several Opuntia giant cactus trees, the only species of cactus in the world that grow like a tree. They hold large amounts of water and grow out of the volcanic rock. They can be up to 35′ high. The bark was orange-colored and felt like leather to the touch.
There was a feeling of euphoria when we walked onto the deserted beach at 7:00 a.m. We were enjoying our breakfast when our son spotted baby iguanas crossing in front of him. Coming in from the ocean they crossed from one end of the beach to the other.
Following breakfast we were building sandcastles and splashing in the “bath-like temperature” water when we realized we had company! A rather large orange and black speckled iguana, body-surfed its way to the shore and crawled across the beach and found a nice rock to sun himself on.
Tortuga Bay Wildlife
This is a magical place! Sitting on a nearly deserted beach listening to the waves crashing against the shore while watching pelicans gliding over the water and iguanas crawling over black lava rocks was surreal.
It was untouched…moving…and spiritual.
While walking along the wide beach we stopped and watched a beautiful Great Blue Heron bird – similar to a flamingo, yet white – strutting through the sand. Well aren’t you beautiful, I thought as she turned and stared at me. Her striking yellow eyes told me she knew she was gorgeous! She then crossed in front of me and our eyes met. I got the impression she was curious about me!
Along the beach iguanas were napping in the sand. The “bad boys” – as I like to call them – were everywhere! We stopped to let a couple cross in front of us and listened to the swooshing sound their tail made as they glided their body through the sand.
The trail led us to the beach’s peninsula to a lookout point where a group of iguanas were basking in the sun on black lava rocks and large Sally Lightfoot crabs were scurrying over the rocks. Rough waves rolled toward the lava rocks. Riding atop the waves were sea turtles! “You’re riding it, dude!”
Tortuga Bay Crab Chase
Early in the morning on a deserted beach ghost crabs scurried across the sand searching for holes to dart into. ‘How about we catch you a crab?’ My husband said to our son. Laughing, my son and I watched Daddy zig-zag running across the beach while trying to catch a ghost crab. Just as he was about to get the crab, it would dart into a hole!
Finally he caught one and carried it in the bucket to us. Tweezers in hand, he carefully jostled the crab until it surfaced. ‘Eewww, eewww!’ Our son shrieked while giggling as the crab maneuvered its body in the bucket. ‘It’s just a cute little guy’, I added. ‘He’s probably a little bit scared.’ Our son took his magnifying glass and held it over the crab. ‘Eewww, eewww!’ He shouted again as it moved closer to him. We all laughed! They are so funny, I thought while watching the crabs scramble to their holes, go in ½ of the way, and then peek out as my husband and son approached them, hoping to catch another one.
Tortuga Bay Kayaking
Near to the peninsula was a sheltered lagoon surrounded by mangroves and a cliff with opuntia cactus trees. The sheltered beach faced the ocean where rough waves were crashing against the rocks. We rented a kayak from a stall at the beach. ‘Be on the lookout for cow rays, white tipped sharks, and turtles,’ the man informed us. Not thinking much about what he said, we leisurely paddled the kayak in the lagoon toward the ocean. Soon we kayaked over a school of cow rays that looked like pancakes gliding along.
Then we spotted a turtle poking its head out of the water! Quickly, it went under the water. We paddled toward it and stopped. I felt like a child on Christmas morning, waiting with anticipation for it to emerge out of the water. ‘Oh my gosh there it is, there it is!’ I excitedly said. Its head and neck emerged; it took a deep breath and then went back into the water. ‘It’s a turtle!’ Our three year old shouted while following it closely with his eyes.
We paddled along searching for turtles and saw a couple swimming together. Venturing toward them we couldn’t see them anymore. Then we looked down and saw them gracefully gliding just beneath the surface of the water. ‘Oh my gosh’, I gasped, ‘I think we’re going to hit it!’ I held my breath and watched it glide beneath the front of the kayak to the other side as we passed over the top of it. I couldn’t believe how close it was to us!
I looked up to see two blue footed boobies diving from high above into the water catching fish. Slowly we paddled along hunting for more turtles. While passing by a small group of them coming up for air, we spotted a white tip shark jumping out of the water in front of us. If only we’d brought our camera on the kayak!!!
While relaxing at the beach, we couldn’t stop talking about how cool kayaking with the turles was. While my son played with his sand toys, I watched pelicans gliding over the water searching for fish to eat, while feeling the warm water lapping against my toes. I knew the Galápagos had amazing wildlife, but I didn’t realize it also had amazing beaches. I fell asleep to the sound of birds chirping, waves lapping against the shore, and my son laughing. Paradise!!!
Leaving paradise we ran through large waves on the other side of the bay along the expansive white sandy beach toward the traihead. It had been a most memorable day at Tortuga Bay.
Highlands Turtle Stalking
Leaving Puerto Ayora we traveled to the Highlands of Santa Cruz, in a 4×4 pickup truck, with a local guide to visit a turtle farm. Our guide told us that many of the turtles had already begun their journey from the top of the hills to the sea to lay eggs, but with the help of the farm owner we could still find some remaining turtles. The first part of our tour we visited a lava tunnel that was formed thousands of years ago.
Then we went turtle stalking! In a single file line with our guide Marco in front, we followed close behind tromping through waist high grass, past ponds, and guava trees. Marco stopped. ‘Guava’, he said while picking up a piece of fallen fruit, ‘is one of the main foods in the turtle’s diet.’ He pointed to a medium-sized turtle resting in the grass. We walked over to it and stood within a foot of it. As we came close the turtle pulled its head inside its shell. ‘That is because it can smell us and is afraid,’ Marco said. He continued, ‘This turtle is about 40-50 years old.‘
I’m trying to find a large one that is over 100 years old,’ Marco said while searching for one. We continued along making our way downhill. Just when we didn’t think we’d see one, we did! The turtle was sitting in the grass and pulled its head inside its shell as we approached it. ‘Wow look at how big it is!’ I said. ‘This male is over 100 years old,’ Marco informed us. ‘They can weigh nearly 900 lbs and be up to 6’ tall.’ Their long neck helps them to reach the tall cactus trees native to the Galápagos. It is thought that the Humboldt current carried them from the mainland. Following our turtle hunt, we stopped at the farm headquarters and looked at white shells of varying sizes from dead turtles.
Garrapatero Beach
Our taxi driver left us at Garrapatero Beach – a nearly deserted beach – for 4 hours. The weather was idyllic! A small marine iguana was climbing up a rock and tiny fish were swimming in water pocket holes, while we built sandcastles. We relaxed beneath the shade of a tree, chased each other through the waves, and watched pelicans gliding over the water. Our family was in Heaven!
North Seymour Island – Blue Footed Booby
Today we joined a small tour group – six of us – and sailed across the glistening blue ocean for 45 minutes to stunning Bachas Beach. The name arose following the mispronunciation of wreckage of two barges offshore during World War II. At that time, the Americans used Baltra Island – where the airport is now located – as a base. Our guide showed us a rustic pontoon from the war. Our three year old happily chased ghost crabs while we listened to the history. Our guide bent over and asked our son, ‘Do you want to hold a hermit crab?’ Shyly he held out his hand as she placed the shell in his palm. The crab slowly emerged from its shell.
I walked through the softest sand I have ever felt. ‘This is organic sand,’ our guide informed us. It felt like flour beneath my feet. We approached a small pond where a flamingo was feeding. Our three year old raised his hand and asked, ‘is the iguana going to bite the flamingo?’ Members of our group smiled at his question. We snorkeled a little while and then ate lunch aboard the sailboat en-route to North Seymour Island.
North Seymour Island is a small island located near to Baltra Island. It was formed by an uplift of submarine lava formation and hosts one of the largest populations of blue-footed boobies as well as frigatebirds. While enjoying a delicious serving of rice with grilled fish, I looked above to see frigatebirds following our small yacht!
As we approached North Seymour Island, a mere slab of rock rising out of the ocean, dozens and dozens of birds circled above it. It appeared to be quite an inhospitable island. This is how I imagine Darwin would have discovered it, I thought while watching a group of frigatebirds soaring in the sky. We boarded a dinghy and approached the rocky cliff side. It was rather difficult getting out of the dinghy while it was bobbing up and down. On shore, our group was following behind our tour guide when a large gull swooped down and took her hat!
We walked through a desert like landscape; composed of red soil, cactus, shrubs and rocks. First, we came upon a group of frigatebirds in some low lying bushy vegetation. One of them – the male’s – red gular pouch (throat sac) was inflated to attract a female since it is mating season. Frigatebirds are monogamous and build nests in low lying trees. Their wingspan can reach nearly 8’! They can not swim or walk well. With the largest wingspan for their body size, they can stay aflight for one week landing only to roost. They use their long hook bills to catch fish or to steal from others, like the blue-footed boobies. They are an endemic subspecies, exclusive to the archipelago.
While sucking on his lollipop – since food is not allowed on the islands – our son spotted a land iguana near to us. The massive orangish-yellow colored iguana yawned and then shut its mouth curled upward, as if it was smiling.
North Seymour Island was a most intriguing place; like no other I’d been to before. It felt so primitive. I felt like I had stepped back into pre-historic times and that a dinosaur would come around the corner at any moment. There was a sense of innocence to the animals. They were quite curious about us. And it seemed as though they had something to tell us. I don’t believe the island has changed much since Darwin discovered it! And I felt privileged to be there, as if I was walking on sacred ground. It was a feeling I will not forget.
Our group approached a couple of blue-footed boobies. They stared at us as if they seemed to say, we have so much to tell you! They were not afraid of us. Their name comes from the Spanish word ‘bobo’, meaning, stupid/fool because they are clumsy on land. They are also considered foolish for their fearlessness of man. I thought they were simply adorable!
Blue-footed boobies are brilliant hunters and may fly far out to sea in search of schools of fish. When their prey is in sight they use their physical adaptations that make them excellent divers. They fold their long wings back around their bodies and dive from as high as 80’ into the ocean!
Our guide informed us that, ‘the more blue the feet are, the more healthy the bird is’. Our little boy was so curious about the blue-footed booby, so our guide placed him on a rock by one and it was definitely love at first sight! They stared at each other while our little boy giggled with delight.
We happened to be visiting in May during courtship season! ‘He will show off his feet to the female,’ our guide began. ‘His electric blue feet indicate he is healthy and the female will look for that quality to produce healthy offspring,’ she continued while we watched two blue-footed boobies together. Suddenly we heard a whistle blow! It wasn’t a loud, shriek like a manmade whistle, but more of a quiet, airy, wind-like whistle. We all turned to see a male strutting toward a female with outstretched wings.
Our guide continued, ‘he will perform an elaborate mating dance unlike any other specie of bird.’ Captivated, our group watched the male give the female a small stick. He then tipped his tail, beak, and outstretched wings toward the sky and whistled. She accepted the stick and then they danced around each other showing off their bright blue feet! ‘The acceptance of the stick means she would like to mate with him and build a nest together’, our guide informed us. We were all so happy for this newly formed couple! It appeared they would lively happily ever after! My heart melted watching their courtship dance. We can learn a lot about courtship from these guys!
That was the good news. However, the next male was not as lucky since the female refused the stick. ‘Oh,’ we all moaned together in unison. Some of the blue-footed boobies waddled behind us on the trail!
The red, rocky landscape gave way to sand and soon we came to a mother sea lion and her baby pup. ‘Be careful,’ our guide reminded us, ‘the mother is protective of her pup.’ Hand in hand my son and I cautiously approached the sea lions and watched them clumsly walk. On our way to the yacht there were just a few more sea lions to cross in the path. One of them, a male, was quite big and didn’t want to budge. Eventually our guide motioned for us to go around him.
As we sailed away from North Seymour Island, I couldn’t help but think of how Darwin must have felt discovering an island with birds no one had ever heard of before.
Bartolomé Island – Far Side of the World
Today we traveled to Bartolomé Island and Sullivan Bay, on a day tour with Galagents. This island, is a volcanic islet just off the coast of Santiago Island and is one of the younger islands in the Galápagos. The bay is named after Charles Darwin’s life long friend, Sir Bartholomew James Sullivan, who was a lieutenant aboard the HMS Beagle. And was the site used for the filming of the 2003 film, Master and Commander: The Far Side of the World.
Once aboard the sailboat we climbed up the ladder to the second story and enjoyed a delicious breakfast. An hour into our sail, we passed by two islands, Daphne Major and Daphne Minor. On the first island, we passed by sea lions basking in the sun, as well as the Nazca Booby Bird. The Nazca was not as colorful as the blue-footed booby, yet it’s the biggest of the three types of booby birds (Blue, Red, Nazca).
An hour later we neared the extinct volcanic cone surrounded by a number of red, orange, and black volcanic formations, one of which, the famous Pinnacle Rock (where Galápagos Penguins are often spotted). After putting our shoes on, we climbed aboard the dinghy and zoomed to a rocky landing with stairs.
We followed our guide up the hillside overlooking the sky-blue water surrounded by red and orange volcanic cone formations. Our guide pointed out the lava rings in the water and told us the island only receives less than 1” of rain a year! As we passed by some volcanic rock our guide picked up a rock and informed us that it weighs practically nothing and will float for a little while before eventually going under water. We continued to another lookout point and overlooked where, Master and Commander: The Far Side of the World was filmed.
Our next stop was Sullivan Bay. We sailed for a short while on a beautiful, sunny day, past Pinnacle Rock, to Sullivan Bay for snorkeling. We boarded the dinghy and headed ashore. From the beach we had a view of Pinnacle Rock and Bartolomé. Our small group of eight had Sullivan Bay to ourselves. I felt like a castaway on this small island surrounded by nothing but wild beauty and cool animals. There were no man made structures of any kind. It was likely similar to how Darwin discovered it centuries ago!
My husband and I took turns snorkeling while the other one stayed with our son at the beach. While licking his lollipop he built sandcastles and watched Sally Lightfoot crabs crawling on the rocks at the shoreline. Together we spotted a tiny penguin standing on the rocky shoreline. The Galápagos Penguin is endemic to the Galápagos and is the only penguin that lives north of the equator in the wild. It survives due to the cold water from the Humboldt Current. I watched with curiosity as it dove into the water where seals played.
Snorkeling with the iguanas, penguins, and sea lions was an unforgettable experience! A highlight of the day was watching the two sea lions circling around my husband, as if they were checking out a most interesting sea creature! Of that experience he said, ‘that was the coolest thing ever!’ ‘They look so clumsy on land, but under the water they are so graceful. They were just swimming around me, looking at me.’ ‘So cool!’ If only animals could talk…
Leaving Sullivan Bay we enjoyed a delicious lunch of grilled fish and rice while sailing for 2.5 hours back to the Itabaca Channel for our return to Santa Cruz Island.
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