Lions, Elephants, Leopards, and Giraffes Oh My! Exploring the Magnificent Country of Kenya
“Jambo, Jambo Bwana!” is the jovial greeting song your ears will encounter upon arrival in Kenya. Kenya is a country possessing rich tradition and culture. It is home to some of the most heart stopping and breathtaking safaris in the world as well as the Great Migration. With several national reserves and parks, the riveting Maasai tribe, the hills and bustling city of Nairobi, Kenya is an enchanting destination for those thirsting for adventure.
Kenya had been on my bucket list for a long time. My fascination with sub-Saharan Africa began from an early age with the movie The Lion King and increased through different classes and experiences while in high school and college. I made a goal to live in Africa someday and after graduating from college I began looking for internships, which led to my eventual internship in Uganda a year later. At the end of my internship, my parents met me in Uganda and they were able to meet the women I worked with (see Uganda). After that, we flew to Nairobi, Kenya to do several safaris.
For our trip, we used Explore, Inc. a tour operator company based in Steamboat Springs, Colorado. We selected them because of their close proximity to us and their personable customer service. Explore, Inc. has high customer ratings and they specialize in customizing unique travel experiences based upon your interests and budget. We worked personally with Katie McDonough who did an excellent job in advising locations and experiences that matched our interests and fit within our budget. Explore, Inc. has tour operators, in Africa, that they coordinate and work with. For our customized trip, the tour operator they used was Vintage Africa. Vintage Africa bent over backwards for us and each guide was friendly and knowledgeable of the land and animals. Our safari was eight days long.
When people travel to Africa for a safari it’s a goal to see the “Big Five” (lion, leopard, rhino, cape buffalo, and elephant). We were lucky to see all five! We loved our guides and they became like family. Kenya was a once in a lifetime trip and we will never forget the beauty and wonder of this country.
Samburu National Reserve
Our first safari tour was in Samburu located in central Kenya. In planning our trip, our tour operator strongly urged us to go there and we were not disappointed. Samburu is a hidden gem and is unique from other national parks in Kenya because it has a dry desert environment with lush patches of vegetation along the Uaaso Nyiro River. It is home to five rare animals: the gerenuk (a long necked gazelle, which can stand on its hind legs to eat the lower branches of trees), Grevy’s zebra (larger than average zebras), reticulated giraffes (their white patterns are irregular), beisa oryx, and somali ostrich. In this reserve, the dirt roads are much closer and you can drive off the dirt roads into the vegetation to get a closer look at some of the animals.
Samburu is about a 30 minute plane ride from the Wilson Airport in Nairobi. The Wilson Airport caters to smaller aircrafts. A driver from Vintage Africa picked us up from the Nairobi Jomo Kenyatta International Airport and rushed us over to the Wilson Airport so we could catch our next flight to Samburu on a three seater twin engine plane. Our early morning flight from Entebbe, Uganda to Nairobi had been canceled. Luckily, we were able to contact Vintage Africa and find another flight that made it possible to still catch our flight to Samburu.
Tip: Sometimes flights in Africa are canceled or flight times are switched without much or any notice. Traveling in Africa can be unpredictable. Make sure that you constantly check your flight and allow more time in-between connections.
Due to the smaller plane, the allotted weight for our luggage was limited. We had to take smaller bags and leave our larger luggage locked with Vintage Africa. Before our trip, we found durable bags with good reviews from Eagle Creek. These bags worked really well for this trip and others.
Boarding the small plane and flying to Samburu was a surreal experience. I will never forget the overhead views of Nairobi and seeing giraffes and elephants below us. It was a once in a lifetime experience! We made a couple of stops along the way to pick up and drop people off at other safari camp tours. A father and daughter on our flight were going to see wild dogs in Northern Kenya. In Samburu, we landed on a vibrant orange dirt runway. There were no buildings only a couple of tour drivers waiting and a few local women selling goods.
Samburu Intrepids Camp
We stayed in the Samburu Intrepids camp for two nights. It is located within the Samburu National Reserve and next to the Uaaso Nyiro River. This is considered a luxury camp in Kenya. Our tents were nice and faced the river. They had two beds with mosquito nets, flushing toilets, hot shower, and at night we had to keep our tents completely zipped to keep the monkeys out. These monkeys were smart and knew how to unzip the tents. They liked to bounce on the roofline while they swung from the trees.
Being farther north, it was very hot! For our game drives, we would go early in the morning and evening to avoid the heat and see the animals when they were active. The Samburu tribe lives in close proximity to this area. Across the river, from our camp, we would see women fetching water and also other members walking their camels to get water from the river. We enjoyed the Samburu Intrepids camp and it was very clean. Some of the staff members for our camp were from the Samburu tribe and we enjoyed visiting and getting to know them better. In the mornings, a Samburu staff member would play the flute to keep the monkeys away from the food. Other members would carry small rocks and a sling shot to scare the monkeys away. In the evenings, after dinner, a Samburu member would give a nightly presentation covering various topics. The food was fantastic and we would definitely go back to this national reserve and stay in this camp!
Samburu Highlights:
- Seeing giraffes duel
- Watching the baboons for over 30 minutes!
- Up close encounters with the leopard and lionesses
- Seeing a baby elephant
- Unique flora and fauna sprinkle the reserve
- Meeting and dancing with people from the Samburu tribe
Giraffes
Gerenuk, Baboons, Zebras, and Other Animals
Lionesses
Story Behind the Leopard Photo
“The baboons are coming!” Our guide told us as his expert eyes surveyed the leopard cautiously moving through the shrubbery. The baboon barking/screeching was becoming louder. Leopards, which are the most elusive of the big cats found in Africa, run away from groups of baboons. Here we were with over seven other safari vehicles all vying for every photographers dream of capturing a big cat, in this case a leopard, in action. Having a guide that knows the patterns and behaviors of the animals is essential to capturing unforgettable photos. Hearing the screeching sound of the baboons, our driver meticulously maneuvered around the numerous safari jeeps to drive around and pull up next to an overgrown thick bush on the opposite side. We waited… and then in a soft whisper he said, “he’s in there and is coming, do you see him?” Suddenly, there was the leopard stealthily coming out of the bushes straight toward our jeep and closing in quickly to about eight feet away… seeing the large shape, which was our jeep, the leopard swerved to its right and went around to run out into the open plains. My hands were shaking hoping that I had taken a good picture.
Tip: If it works within your budget, have a private driver! We did not have professional telephoto lens and were able to get just as good of shots by having a private driver. A private driver caters to you and the animals you want to see. They will stop anytime for pictures of trees, birds, animals, etc. Plus you’re not fighting with others in your car for pictures of animals.
Elephants (so darling, especially the baby elephant!!)
Trees and Vegetation
Samburu Tribe
We visited a Samburu village to learn more about their culture, which is similar to the Maasai. The Samburu are more traditional. They continue to practice ancient traditions and live a semi-nomadic lifestyle herding cattle.
Amboseli National Park
Our next safari tour was in Amboseli National Park, which is known for its spectacular views of the elusive Mount Kilimanjaro and countless elephants. It is located in southern Kenya near the Tanzania border. We flew back to the Wilson Airport and our safari guide for the next tour drove us to Amboseli.
Tip: It is not necessary to fly to all safari tours. Driving to the different tours cuts down on costs and provides a different experience while driving through the country.
Depending on traffic, it is a four to four and a half hour drive from Nairobi along the Mombasa road. The Mombasa road is the main road between Nairobi and Mombasa, which is the country’s largest port city. Traffic is highly congested along this corridor. Traffic, for us, was bumper to bumper leaving Nairobi. The drive provided great views of the country and an opportunity to get to know our guide better. Amboseli is Kenya’s first game sanctuary. The park contains a variety of wildlife habitats including open plains, swamps, and marshlands. It is home to giraffes, zebras, hippopotamuses, cheetahs, antelopes, ostriches, hyenas, and herds of elephants. If you love elephants, then Amboseli is an absolute must!
Satao Elerai Camp
We stayed in the Satao Elerai Camp for two nights. It is owned by the Maasai and located next to a watering hole. The camp is outside the national park and sits at the foot of Mount Kilimanjaro (the tallest free-standing mountain in the world). You need four wheel drive to get to the camp. Our luxury tent faced Kilimanjaro and was vast inside. In our tent, we had a flushing toilet, hot shower, and comfortable beds. Even though it was the middle of August, it got VERY cold at night. The staff at the camp would bring hot water bottles and put them in our beds to keep them warmer. At night, I would curl up and hug the hot water bottle.
Even though the camp sits about 30-40 minutes of four wheel driving outside of the reserve, we loved it. The food was delicious and one of our favorite meals was soup served in a thick bread bowl. The view of the stars at night were breathtaking, being closer to Kilimanjaro was a must for us, and seeing elephants drinking from the watering hole made staying here memorable. Since we were farther out, at night we were escorted by a staff member to our tent from the main lodging area in case we encountered any wild animals.
Amboseli Highlights:
- Seeing Mount Kilimanjaro completely exposed!!
- Little did my dad know that several years later he would be hiking the mountain (see Tanzania)
- Seeing a coalition of cheetahs (saw 3-5 from a distance)
- All the elephant herds
- Marshy vegetation
Kilimanjaro Story
“It’s a long ways to go and a lot of money to spend… with the unpredictably of seeing that mountain,” said our tour operator. That mountain was Kilimanjaro. No matter how unlikely, we were going. After a four hour plus drive from Nairobi to Amboseli National Park along the congested traffic of the Mombasa Road, a caravan of over 25 elephants greeted us as they marched along their silhouette captured in the fading sunlight. Immediately, we began looking, hoping to catch a glimpse of Mount Kilimanjaro. The entire mountain was smothered by dark gray clouds and remained there the entire next day. We were leaving early the next morning and opportunities to see it were quickly dissipating. The staff at our camp told us the best time of seeing Kili would be in the early morning between 6 and 6:10 am… Hoping and praying, we nervously unzipped the tent to look out and… there she was completely exposed! It was as if the crisp calmness of that mid-August morning was showing its reverence for the majestic mountain. After hundreds of pictures and half-eating breakfast because of its commanding presence, we left to catch our flight. When our guide saw us, he told us he had been praying for his white sister, my mom, to be able to see it. As we drove to catch our flight, feathery clouds were beginning to accumulate in front of it, but not before we saw a giraffe walking in front of it completing our dream.
Coalition of Cheetahs
Elephant Herds
Zebras, Hyenas, Ugandan Cranes, etc.
Marshy Vegetation
Maasai Mara National Reserve
The last leg of our safari tours was the Maasai Mara National Reserve. It is located in south western Kenya and is opposite of the border from the Serengeti in Tanzania. We flew from Amboseli back to the Wilson Airport, in Nairobi, and flew on a smaller airplane to the Maasai Mara National Reserve. The airport in Amboseli had a small building with restrooms and a paved runway allowing for a little larger airplane. Our flight to the Mara included picking up and dropping people off to different locations. Landing in the Mara was the polar opposite of Samburu. The airplane landed on a grass/dirt airstrip surrounded by an abundance of overgrown lush vegetation. Our driver was waiting for us. Before taking us to our camp, he drove us to a densely wooded area to spy on hippos hanging out by the river.
The Maasai Mara has a mixture of rich green and tall golden grass as well as a plethora of animals, visiting this reserve is an absolute must. The Mara is home to leopards, lions, Thompson’s gazelle, zebras, giraffes, elephants, numerous birds, and one of the best shows on earth of wildebeests and zebras reluctantly plunging across the Mara River laden with crocodiles during the Great Migration.
The Great Migration (one of the best shows on earth!)
The Great Migration occurs annually May through December between the Serengeti plains of Tanzania (in the south) and the Maasai Mara of Kenya (in the north). The amount of rain and green grass for food dictates how soon and where the wildebeests and zebras travel. Although it occurs annually, each year is difficult to predict. Typically, by late April and May the rains in the Serengeti will have stopped and the grass will begin to dry out causing the wildebeests and zebras to begin migrating northward where greener grass and water is available.
During June and July, some will form small groups or large herds as they continue northward looking for grass to graze. By the middle to end of July, some may begin crossing the Mara River in Kenya. Producing a spectacular sight of wildebeests and zebras reluctantly plunging down the steep slopes into the crocodile infested river below. In August, more herds will continue this dangerous crossing in order to obtain better food. This may continue through September with majority now in the Maasai Mara continuing to graze. By October and into November, the herds will migrate back south to northern Tanzania in the Serengeti.
Fun fact – You will often see wildebeests and zebras traveling in groups together. The reason for this is because zebras can see really well during the day and night. Wildebeests have poor vision, but exceptional hearing so they work together as a team to migrate safely.
Our Experience with the Great Migration
We arrived in the Mara in the middle to the latter part of August. Despite the unpredictability of the migration, we were hopeful to see wildebeests and zebras crossing the Mara River. This year, due to the rains, the crossing of the river happened earlier and the majority of the wildebeests and zebras had already crossed. Still hopeful, our driver drove us to the different lookout points where crossings typically occur and what we saw is something I will never forget… a scene of carnage.
I was filled with deep sadness and an eerie quietness pervaded as we gazed over the seen. I imagined what it must feel like to witness such a horrific event based upon National Geographic footage I had watched of the crossing. The cliffs down into the Mara River are very steep placing the wildebeests in an unfair position as they gallop down. We saw several stiff (rigor mortis) wildebeests and antelopes lying in the river because the crocodiles were already full from this year’s spectacular show. Although we didn’t see the crossing, we did see herds of wildebeests and some zebras marching forward in their quest for better grazing.
Fairmont Mara Safari Club
We first stayed in the Fairmont Mara Safari Club camp that sits right next to the Mara River for two nights. A pod of hippos were stationed below our tent in the river. We stayed in a luxury tent, which had two four-poster beds with mosquito nets, hot shower, and a flushing toilet. The food was excellent and it was fun to sit by and overlook the Mara River as we ate our meals. Like in Samburu, in the Mara, we would do our game drives early in the morning and evening. During our breaks, we would eat and rest.
Maasai Mara Highlights (while staying at the Fairmont Mara Safari Club):
- Seeing a lion wake up and greet a lioness
- Standing next to rhinos
- More leopards, warthogs, and other animal encounters
Lion Greeting a Lioness – so dear!
Standing Next to Rhinos – oh my?!
We had to use slow movements as we stood near the rhinos. The guides spend a lot of time with the rhinos and know their patterns. They would tell us where to move slowly. I was so terrified! The whole time we were by the rhinos I kept envisioning suddenly getting speared by one of their horns. I was so relieved to get back into the jeep haha!
More Leopards, Cheetahs, Warthogs, and Other Animal Encounters!
Vegetation in the Mara
&Beyond Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp
The &Beyond Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp is in the western border of the Maasai Mara Reserve at the foot of the Oloololo Escarpment. The western area of the reserve is less crowded and is in the direct pathway of where the Great Migration typically occurs. We stayed at this camp for two nights in canvas safari tents that included comfortable beds, hot shower, flushing toilet, and a balcony providing a mesmerizing view of the Mara. The expansive view of the Mara was my favorite part of staying at this camp. One night, members from the local Maasai tribe performed a couple of traditional dances. I’m glad that we stayed in both camps because each one provided a different experience within the Mara.
Maasai Mara Highlights (while staying at the &Beyond Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp):
- Hot air balloon ride
- included a breakfast in the Mara
- Picnic in the Mara
- Maasai performances
- Watching the Great Migration in action (see above)
- Experiencing a thunderstorm in the Mara
Hot Air Balloon Ride in the Maasai Mara
Picnic in the Mara
Maasai Performances
Experiencing a Thunderstorm in the Mara
More Animals!
Nairobi
The views while driving into the outskirts of Nairobi were beautiful. Before our flight that night, we had an early dinner at the Tamambo Karen Blixen restaurant. The restaurant is located on the site of the original farmhouse of Karen Blixen and is close to the Karen Blixen museum. Karen is most famous for her book Out of Africa. We had a our dinner outside. The food was good and the location was peaceful.
Before leaving Nairobi we had to pick up our luggage from a hotel where it was being stored and quickly re-arrange all of our belongings. We were short on time and it was rush hour. In some places, we would only creep a couple of feet forward every five minutes. Even the driver of a truck, in front of us, got out and checked his oil while waiting. We were worried about making our international flight. Fortunately, after many prayers we did and said good-bye to our driver, Eutukus, who felt like a family member. Although it was our first trip to sub-Saharan Africa, we will be back. The people, culture, and land get in your blood and call for your return.
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