Salsa lessons, pottery classes, percussion lessons — experiencing the Authentic Cuba
Experiencing the authentic Cuba fills you with wonder as you intimately experience the culture participating in salsa, percussion, ceramics, and Spanish classes. The people are warm and inviting. They are the heart and soul of Cuba.
Cuba was on my husband’s bucket list for two long decades. The purpose of our trip in late 2016 – besides having an enjoyable get away together– was to experience the authentic Cuba. Having traveled throughout Latin America and the Caribbean, we had a sense of what Cuba might be like. But, to truly experience it, our travel itinerary would be focused on people interactions as opposed to tourist sites. Our purpose would be experiencing it through the eyes of the people. The people who are the heart and soul of Cuba – the musicians, performers and artisans.
We are United States citizens who traveled to Cuba independently on an educational visit. We spent a week in Havana, Trinidad, and Santa Clara.
Before our trip, we arranged Spanish, ceramics, and percussion lessons through Experience the Real Cuba. Through them, we also arranged a shared taxi service from Havana to Trinidad, as well as a private taxi from Trinidad to Santa Clara Airport. From start to finish, Rena, who organized our classes and taxis, was wonderful to work with. I would highly recommend using their services.
HAVANA
When we arrived in Havana on New Year’s Eve, it felt like the clock stopped ticking in 1959. I fell in love with the old classic cars, Neoclassical buildings, and live jazz music on the street. I fell in love with the warm-hearted Cubanos! Experience Havana firsthand in a convertible along the famous Malecón, relax in a jazz café, or stroll the timeless streets. You’ll be back for round two.
SALSA LESSON
A highlight of our stay in Havana was our salsa lesson with SalsAmiga All Star. My husband and I took two sessions of a private 1.5 hour class. We each had a dancing partner who worked with us individually before we danced together. We are beginners! But I was so impressed by how much we learned in those two sessions! Now we can dance salsa together. Yoanka, and her team, were professional and energetic. Our classes were given in Spanish, but Yoanka speaks English too. I corresponded with Yoanka multiple times prior to our classes via email. She was quick to respond and very helpful. We really enjoyed our classes and would take them again given the opportunity.
CAR TOUR
Havana is a rolling car museum! No trip to Havana would be complete without an old car tour. We arranged a 3 hour car tour with Old Car Tours. We reserved a red, 1960 Buick Electra. The owner of the car and our driver, Alberto, was classy! We felt like instant celebrities while climbing into the convertible.
Alberto had recorded music from the 1980’s playing in the background (my favorite era of music). While on our three hour tour we went by sites such as: Capitol, Chinatown, Carlos III street, Revolution Square, Vedado, Cristobal Colon Cemetery, John Lennon statue Park, Nuevo Vedado, Habana Forest, Miramar, 5th Avenue, Malecón Avenue, Christ of Havana, and Morro-Cabaña fortress.
Our driver stopped for photos whenever asked to. For the grand finale we cruised along the Malecón at sunset! It couldn’t have been more picture perfect! Wind whipping through my hair, classics on the radio, sitting next to my sweetheart, watching the surf crash over the wall onto the most famous road in Havana. This was the quintessential Havana experience!
GRAN TEATRO DE LA HABANA ALICIA ALONSO
This beautiful Neo-Baroque theater first opened to the public in 1838. It is the oldest active theater in Latin America. Today, it is named after Alicia Alonso, prima ballerina, who despite failing vision continued dancing throughout her life. In 1948, she founded a ballet company that later became the Ballet Nacional de Cuba with funding from Fidel Castro. She has received awards, such as Heroine of Labour of the Republic of Cuba (1998) and honorary Ambassador (2002). Knowing that history, experiencing a ballet in this grand venue was a priority for us.
Our salsa teacher arranged tickets for us in advance to the Nutcracker ballet. This ballet was a tribute to Cuba’s former commander in chief, Fidel Castro, who passed away just a month prior to our visit. The performance was about to begin. The audience clapped loudly as the lights dimmed in the semi-circular theater. A large Cuban flag dropped over the red curtain on stage while the national anthem began to play. The audience stood in reverence while a black and white film of Fidel Castro and his regime played on the screen. A hush fell over the crowd while remembering the late Fidel Castro. The ballet was a remarkable performance with elaborate costumes, backdrop, and poised ballerinas. At the end of this amazing performance, Alicia Alonso (95 yrs.), a dear friend of Fidel Castro’s, stood on stage and received a bouquet of flowers and a standing ovation. This was a night I will long remember!
HOTEL NACIONAL DE CUBA
This upscale hotel, sitting on a hill overlooking the Havana Bay and Malecón, is steeped in history from movie stars to missiles. Celebrities, such as John Wayne and Frank Sinatra, have stayed here. During the 1962 Cuban Missile Crisis it was the background when Cuban soldiers dug tunnels beneath its gardens. Today, it still remains steeped in history. While approaching the grand hotel, vintage cars exited the semi-circular driveway. Entering through the lobby, we walked through an archway outside to a beautiful patio where we ate lunch. Non-hotel guests can use the internet for one hour for 7 CUC and tour the hotel at select times of the day. Following lunch, we left the patio and walked on a pathway through the garden that led us to a small museum. At the underground museum, black and white photos and newspaper clippings from the Cuban Missile Crisis decorated the concrete walls. It was a fascinating experience for us walking through history while touring the network of underground tunnels facing the Havana Bay.
PLAZA DE LA REVOLUCIÓN
If you book a vintage car ride, you’ll likely stop here on your tour. This is where grey, utilitarian government buildings are located and political rallies take place. A large mural of Che Guevara – with the words Hasta la Victoria Siempre – hangs on the Ministry of Interior building here. There is also a memorial for Cuba’s national hero, José Martí.
We happened to be here on January 2nd, during a military march and parade, that is held only every five years, to celebrate Armed Forces Day and the Granma landing (1956). Normally held on December 2nd, this year the parade was postponed following the death of the former Cuban leader, Fidel Castro. Thousands of citizens and revolutionary armed forces personnel, including Raúl Castro, Cuba’s current president, joined together and celebrated 60 years since the Granma landing. Military jeeps led the procession, followed by a military march, and speech. They were followed by a multitude of Cubanos wearing their patriotic red, white, and blue, marching together to the beat of the military band, who were seated in the grandstand waving their flags. Some participants walking in Revolution Square, were holding posters of Fidel Castro and Che Guevara with words pledging their loyalty to them, while Raúl Castro and the military waved as they passed by. It was a surreal experience participating in such a monumental event!
TRINIDAD
At the foot of the Escambray Mountains lies one of the best preserved colonial cities of Latin America. Trinidad, a UNESCO world heritage site since 1988, is a photographer’s delight. While on a late afternoon stroll, I felt as if I had stepped back in time while listening to horse hooves clomping on cobblestone streets. A man wearing a fedora hat walked past vibrantly colored concrete homes selling sunflowers, while a pig roasted over a fire pit. The fragrant aroma of the roasting pig at dusk wet my appetite. In search of a jazz café, I walked past a dimly lit street lamp flickering on the face of a man singing while strumming his guitar.
Come to Trinidad for at least a couple of days. Stay in a casa particular with a family; take an educational class during the day, and unwind with the music at night. To truly step back in time, linger here a little while, this place can’t be rushed.
SPANISH LESSON
Although my husband and I both speak Spanish fluently, we arranged a one hour Spanish lesson through Experience The Real Cuba as part of our educational visit. While staying in Trinidad, our lesson was given in the home of our instructors. We each had a private instructor who conversed with us. It was a great opportunity to practice Spanish. Although this was a Spanish lesson, what I enjoyed most was being in Carmen’s humble home, sitting in a wooden rocking chair on her back porch, listening to the rooster crow. Not only was it a great opportunity to gain a better insight into the life of a local, but also to make a new friend.
CERAMICS LESSON
Trinidad is known for its ceramics! We arranged a two hour pottery class through Experience The Real Cuba at La Casa Del Alfarero. When we arrived at the ceramics workshop, the celebrated potter, Azariel Santander Aleántara, was at work behind the wheel, whom for the past 60 years has created ceramics. I watched in awe at how easily his old fingers sculpted a beautiful vase. Behind him on the wall hung newspaper clippings and photos of he and Fidel Castro. For generations – since the late 19th century – the Santander family has created ceramics and is renowned throughout Cuba. I felt like we were touring a living museum! Today, we were learning the art of ceramics from the master’s grandson, Alberto. During our private lesson, we each had our own pottery wheel to work on. Alberto instructed us and helped us each to make four pieces of pottery to be fired in the kiln. We also helped Alberto carve pottery to sell. At the end of the class, the Santander Family gave my husband a piece of pottery for his birthday.
PERCUSSION LESSON
Since music is a part of Cuban life, we arranged a two hour percussion lesson through Experience The Real Cuba. Our private lesson was given in the home of David López Carabito, a professional instructor of percussion instruments. David was a great instructor. This was my first time playing the drums! Our lesson began with hand movements and rhythms on the Tumbadora/Congos (Cuban drum). Eventually we graduated to other instruments, such as the maracas, guiro, and clave. Toward the end of our class, David’s musician partner, Alberto, stopped by, and together we all jammed on his concrete patio! It was fun having our own backyard band. The following day we stopped by La Canchánchara, an outdoor bar famous for its cocktail drink, where David and Alberto lit up the crowd with their music. It was pretty amazing learning the drums from an internationally famous musician. The icing on the cake was my impromptu performance with them at La Canchánchara! Not only was David a great teacher and entertainer, but a really enjoyable person. This was truly a highlight of our stay!
PLAYA ANCÓN
Considered the best beach on Cuba’s south coast with its white sand and turquoise water, Playa Ancón was a nice break from Trinidad. We paid 5 CUC to ride the Viazul bus to/from Playa Ancón (Coco Bar stop). It was about a 20 minute bus ride. The bus departed Trinidad four times a day, every 2-3 hours (on the hour). The bus was crowded, so get there early if you want a seat. We paid for our ticket on the bus. At the beach we rented two lounge chairs for 4 CUC. There is a snack stand, toilet, and shaded seating area near to the hotel. It was semi-crowded near the facilities, but leaving the main beach, one can walk farther along the coast for solitude. It is also a great spot for snorkeling and scuba diving.
SANTA CLARA
CHE GUEVARA MAUSOLEUM
Located in Santa Clara, at the foot of the Escambray Mountains, sits the Che Guevara Mausoleum. The formidable 22’ bronze statue of Che Guevara sits high on a concrete pedestal. We toured the mausoleum where Che Guevara and his fellow combatants remains are. There was also an interesting museum showcasing items from his life, such as his journals and rifles. It was well worth the stop – while traveling from Trinidad to the Santa Clara Airport – to learn more about this famous political figure. Allow at least one hour for your visit. Free admission.
JAZZ CLUBS/MUSIC
A trip to Cuba wouldn’t be complete without hanging out at some jazz clubs or in a jazz café.
BUENA VISTA SOCIAL CLUB – Havana
Located at the Melia Cohiba hotel, the Havana Café is a nightclub decorated 1950’s style. A member of the original Buena Vista Social Club still performs nightly. It’s a popular venue with tourists. The 1.5 hour show was a mix of jazz music and cabaret dancing. For 30 CUC per person, I’d skip the show. There was too much cabaret and too little good old jazz music.
CASA DE LA TROVA – Trinidad
We were looking for a bar/club to listen to traditional Cuban music. This is the place! For only 2 CUC, we spent the night listening to three bands while watching locals and tourists salsa together. Great music! There were plenty of tables, but arrive by 9:00 pm because it fills up quickly. Located near to the old plaza it was a great venue although it gets smoky from the plentiful Cuban cigars.
THE CHURCH OF JESUS CHRIST OF LATTER-DAY SAINTS
The first Cuban Branch was organized in 2004. Elder Bednar, a member of the Quorum of the Twelve Apostles, dedicated the land for missionary work on February 16, 2012. While visiting Havana, we visited the Christ of Havana statue. This beautiful white, marble statue of Jesus Christ sits on a hilltop overlooking the Bay of Havana. This is where the land for missionary work was dedicated. Elder Holland, a member of the Quorum of the Twelve Apostles, visited Havana in 2014 and met with local leaders and members. Elder Holland said, ‘Although we are small in number, each member is precious to us, and Cuba is precious to us.’
While staying in Havana, we attended this small branch. The members met in a building shared by other Christian churches. When we visited in early 2017, the service began at 10:00 a.m. The building is located at Calle (street) 14, between Av. 3ra and Av. 5ta, Miramar (see map). If you are visiting Havana on a Sunday, I highly recommend attending this small branch and meeting the wonderful saints.
For specific links to classes and services mentioned in this blog post check out Cuba in our destination pages by clicking here.
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