Trekking through the Himalayas of Nepal
Nepal is a destination known for its majestic mountain range which boasts the tallest mountain in the world Everest. Hikers and climbers around the globe venture every year hoping to catch a glimpse or possibly summit this wonder of the world.
While living in India, it was on our bucket list to see Mount Everest. Some people can see it by helicopter, but we chose to do a three week trek in the Himalayas.
Kathmandu
Kathmandu is the gateway to the Himalayas. While in Katmandu, there are various sites to see including the Boudhanath Stupa and the Pashupatinath Hindu Temple.
The Boudhanath Stupa
The Boudhanath Stupa is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Built during the 5th century it is the largest Buddhist shrine in Nepal. The base of the stupa is symbolic of earth; the dome is symbolic of water; the spire is symbolic of fire; the umbrella (flags) symbolic of air; and the pinnacle is symbolic of ether. The eyes of Lord Buddha are watching our actions. Above the eyes are 13 steps (obstacles) one must overcome to reach nirvana (end of suffering).
Prayer wheels are spun in a clockwise direction, thus sending mantras (prayers) to the wind. We joined with the monks and other Buddhists and spun the prayer wheels as we walked clockwise around the stupa. Monks were performing prostrations (bend→slide→kneel→push→stand) as they walked around the stupa. Praying for peace in the world.
Pashupatinath Hindu Temple
Pashupatinath Hindu Temple, UNESCO World Heritage site, is regarded as the most sacred Hindu temple in Nepal. It is located on the banks of the Bagmati River (Holy River). Before cremation the dead body must be dipped 3 times in the ‘holy river’ and then wrapped in cloth. We watched as the family mourned the loss of their love one by kneeling and placing flowers on the body while wailing.
The body was fastened on a bamboo ladder (same ladder used to carry the body from the house through the streets of Kathmandu to the temple) and carried to the cremation ghat.
At the Arya Ghat (most widely used place for cremation in Nepal) the chief mourner (usually eldest son) accompanied by a family member walked clockwise 5 times around the funeral pyre before lighting it. The family threw flowers and personal items, such as, jewelry, clothes, and shoes into the river as a donation to the ‘holy river’. Following cremation, the ashes were thrown into the river, thus carrying the deceased into a ‘good life’.
We’re off on the adventure of a lifetime to the Top of the World!
We’ll spend the following 19 days trekking through the Everest Region of Nepal. Our journey will take us over spectacular Himalayan passes through the Gokyo Valley to Everest Base Camp. Early in the morning, we waited for the fog to clear at the Kathmandu Airport before flying to Lukla. We flew on Gorkha Airlines (14 passenger seat) prop jet over the spectacular Himalayas. Landing at the Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla (9,133′) was quite the experience. It’s an up-hill landing because the runway is built on the side of a mountain at a 20% incline. A 2,000′ drop awaits the end of the runway. It is one of the most dangerous and deadliest airports in the world.
Our trek begins in Lukla. From there we trek to Manjo → Namche Bazaar → Phortse Tenga → Dole → Machhermo → Gokyo. In Gokyo we ascend Gokyo Ri (17,988′) for incredible panoramic views. Leaving Gokyo Ri we continue to Thangna before crossing over the Cho La pass (17,503′) – rarely attempted by trekking groups – to Dzongla. From there we trek to Lobuche before joining the classic trail to Everest Base Camp. After spending the night in Gorak Shep, we climb to the top of Kala Patthar (18,450′) for an amazing view of Everest and Nuptse. The following morning we visit Everest Base Camp (17,600′) and view the Khumbu Ice Fall. Leaving there we return to Lobuche → Tengboche where we visit the monastery. We continue descending in altitude to Khumjung → Namche Bazaar → Lukla.
Teahouses
Along our trek we stayed in teahouses. Teahouses are run by local sherpa families during the trekking season. They are rustic and basically just keep you out of the wind and cold.
The Sherpa people gather yak dung during the day and use it as fuel for fires at night. The stove in the central room of the teahouse is used for heating and cooking. The burning dung emitted a curious odor, but we got used to it. One time while dinner was being prepared, a little boy was pulling a small wooden stool with blankets on top of it shouting “ya, ya”. “It’s his pretend yak,” his mom said. For dinner we enjoyed delicious homemade soup by the warm stove. We enjoyed talking with trekkers and listening to Wang Da (our sherpa guide) play the guitar. When the last dung cake had burned out it, was time to retire to our icy cold room.
Long-drop toilet. It’s more tiring than trekking all day! Wait ’til it’s the middle of the night – sub-zero temperatures -pitch black outside – and you get that call that sends you to the long-drop. EXERCISE CAUTION when squatting on frozen urine. (Funny as it may sound – numerous trekkers have been injured on a trip to the toilet).
While trekking, we’ve come across several Mani Walls. The Buddhist chanting inscriptions on the wall is ~ Om Mani Padme Hum (Hail to the jewel on the lotus). It is believed that reciting this mantra clears the mind of disturbing emotions which leads us to act in negative ways. We respectfully walk around the left side of the stone tablets. By doing so, the prayers written on the stones are automatically said by us.
On our way to Gokyo Ri, we passed by three stunning turquoise lakes with Tibetan ducks swimming in them.
At 4:30 a.m., we began our ascent of Gokyo Ri by walking across an ice-field that was breaking apart. I felt so isolated in the dark, placing one foot in front of the other, while listening to water trickling beneath my feet. Wearing my puffy down jacket with only the dim light of my headlamp, made me feel like a marshmallow walking on the moon! Then I was taken aback as I looked up to see a full moon shining brilliantly upon snow capped peaks. It was so mysteriously beautiful! In that moment, I forgot that my fingers and toes were frozen and how steep the terrain was. Then a soft orange glow replaced a starlit sky as the sun came up over 4 of the 6 highest peaks in the world! A couple hours later we arrived at the prayer flags and hugged. The view was simply breathtaking!
Incredible 360° panoramic view of the Himalayas – including 4 peaks over 8,000 meters -Everest (29,035′), Cho-Oyu (26,864′), Lhotse (27,940′) , Makalu (27,765′)
Everest (29,035′) – Lhotse (27,940′) – Makalu (27,765′)
Each time we reached the top of a pass, Wang Da (our Sherpa guide) would perform a ritual of hanging prayer flags, lighting incense, and praying. “We must give respect to the mountain,” he said. Sherpas believe the mountain gods protect those who worship them.
Prayer flags come in 5 different colors: blue (sky), white (clouds), red (fire), green (water), yellow (earth). In the Himalayas, prayer flags decorate houses, monasteries, and mountain passes. It is believed that the mantras (prayers) written on the flags are carried by the wind across the land to bless the people.
Leaving Gokyo Ri, we crossed over the massive Ngozumpa Glacier. It was tedious and tiring crossing over mounds of rock and sand. In the late afternoon, just as the sun was beginning to hide behind Cholatse Peak, we arrived at a newly built teahouse, where we spent the night before attempting the Cho La Pass.
Cho La Pass
At 6:00 a.m. we trekked upwards through a shady canyon before scrambling over car-sized boulders and loose scree. The trail steepened as we continued over icy boulders and more loose scree. I looked behind me to see stacks of Himalayan Peaks rising majestically into the cobalt-blue sky. I was grateful I was not carrying a heavy load or else I might have plummeted over the cliff-side. Following an exhausting climb, we arrived at the pass a couple hours later where we enjoyed a delicious yak cheese sandwich for lunch. From here we had a wonderful view of endless peaks.
Leaving our scenic lunch spot we precariously sidestepped, down around a glacial lake. Don’t slip, I thought, while peering into the icy lake below me. Soon we made it to a snowy field surrounded by snowcapped peaks. I sat down and slid down the snowy field. It was so much fun! Soon we came to another precarious section as we skirted around a slippery bowl shaped ridge of ice and rock with a 200′ drop to a glacier below.
It was dangerous without crampons and it was nearly impossible to keep my feet steady as I clung to the cliff-side with my frozen hands. I tried not to think about how far down the crevasse went below me. It was not a long section of the trek but certainly the most technical. This is why the Cho La Pass is rarely attempted by trekking groups. If there had been freshly fallen snow we would have not been able to cross it. Breathing a sigh of relief we arrived to a sandstone rock with a view facing Ama Dablam, Awi Peak, Tawache, and Cholatse. Unbelievable!!! We celebrated having conquered the Cho La Pass safely, our first mountaineering pass.
Stunning Cho La Pass (17,503′)
I thought descending the Cho La Pass was more difficult and tiring than ascending on the other side. It appeared we would never get to the valley below as the blistering sun beat upon us. We carried on through the beautiful Dzongla Valley, following an icy river flowing through an orange and red colored rocked valley, surrounded by steep walls of sheer ice and snow. It was so pretty against a blue sky. Eventually, after a tiring, yet rewarding long day, we arrived to a barren landscape where we spent the night at a rustic teahouse.
Today was less strenuous as we left the Dzongla Valley toward Lobuche. In the distance I saw Pumori (23,494’), Lhotse (27,890’), and Nuptse (25,750’). We ascended the Khumbu Glacier toward Gorak Shep (17,349’). It was a steady – but exhausting – climb through rocky valleys. Crossing over a ridge, majestic Pumori appeared. She was still miles away, but the big pyramid shaped peak stood boldly against the blue sky against a harsh and desolate valley en-route to Gorak Shep. We carried on up and down over slippery rock fall. The washed away trail wound up and down through piles of sandy moraines toward Gorak Shep (where we would spend the night). In the distance were breathtaking Pumori, Nuptse, and Lho-La (in Tibet). Just before arriving to Gorak Shep, we crossed over the Khumbu Glacier. It was the tallest free standing dirt, debris and scree pile I have seen.
Following a delicious mushroom soup with Tibetan bread, we set out for Kalapattar (18,450′), a small rocky peak on the southwest ridge of Pumori (23,494). It was a gradual climb along a dirt path next to a field of wild grass toward Kalapattar. On our right side was enchanting Nuptse. Its ridgeline looks like a cartoon drawing because it’s so complex. The wind blew hard as we gained altitude. The air was thinner and I worked harder than ever before to lift my feet. I felt like a robot moving in slow motion. I was inspired by Pumori (dome shaped peak) staring me in the face and Everest peaking from behind Nuptse on the right side of me. I pushed on fighting the gale force wind against me. At last, I reached the altar of prayer stones and flags, as Wang Da, our guide, thanked the Mountain God for allowing us to climb the mountain.
We had an extraordinary view of Pumori (on our left side), Lho-La, Everest, Nuptse, Ama Dablam (looked like pyramid from this angle) and countless other towering peaks surrounding us. Not to mention the Khumbu Ice Fall stretching its way from Everest to the bowl-shape valley of base camp. Behind us, was a sheer drop hundreds of feet below to several turquoise colored glacial lakes. We all congratulated each other – Bart and I giving high fives – and took lots of pictures.
Breathtaking view of Lho La (19,704′) – Everest (29,035′) – Nuptse (25,750′)
What a beautiful day too! Despite the wind, it was a near perfect blue sky, except for two small wispy clouds nearing Everest. Up close, Everest (29,035’) looked like a big, black, bald rock. Nuptse, to the right side of it, was much more impressive. But then again, Everest was most impressive because it is the tallest point on earth and here we were just across from it!
“I feel like I’m on top of the world!” I cheered. I felt great! I knew I would never climb Everest, but I felt like I had just conquered my own Everest by climbing higher than I had ever before. Approximately every 10 minutes, an avalanche would erupt from Pumori or Lho-La. It sounded like a gunshot! It was crazy to watch all that snow plummeting off. Neither of us will ever forget that view! I’m speechless…
Everest Base Camp (EBC)
Trekking in the cold morning air – isolated from the rest of the world – was a tedious walk up and down through rocky moraines over an ever changing trail to Everest Base Camp (EBC). All of the climbers had already left for the season so it was just the 4 of us. It felt like we were the only human beings on the planet!
It was an incredible feeling to be standing where those who have summited Everest have stood. It was the most isolating place I’ve been and a little bit eerie listening to avalanches tumbling around us.
As seen from EBC (17,700′) the perilous Khumbu Ice Fall is a labyrinth of house-sized blocks and broad crevasses. In his memoir, Jamling Tenzing Norgay (son of Tenzing Norgay who first summited Everest with Sir Edmund Hillary in 1953), said: “Sherpas say if you fall into a crevasse you get a visa to the United States.”
Before groups climb Everest, a puja (prayer) ceremony is given by the local Lama (monk of high rank). Juniper is burned on the altar while the Lama offers chants of protection for Sherpas and climbers. Climbing equipment, such as ice axes and crampons are placed around the altar, so they are covered with smoke from the burning incense and blessed for the climb.
Over the next couple days we trekked down the valley from Lobuche (16,174’) to Dingboche (14,271’). On the way we stopped on a knoll overlooking the valley and visited the memorials to those who died on Everest while being sponsored to climb. There were approximately 50 memorials, such as, Scott Fisher who died in 1996 during the worst disaster ever on Everest.
From there it was a steep descent to the Pheriche Valley. While trekking along this windy, barren hillside we saw a helicopter flying toward us from Pheriche, rescuing a sick trekker. We continued walking along the plateau toward Ama Dablam’s north face. Behind Ama Dablam were countless other towering peaks. Yaks were grazing and rolling in the dirt near the trail. About 2 ½ hours later we came to a stupa with a gold spire and face on it. The red, green, and blue painted eyes and brow were intense. Prayers flags were fastened to the stupa blowing in the wind toward Ama Dablam.
Dingboche (14,271’) sits in a valley at the foot of Ama Dablam (22,467’). The adjacent side of the stupa faced toward Lhotse (27,939’) where a plume of clouds blowing over it. To the right of Lhotse was Island Peak (20,285’), and Makalu (27,765’). The trail lead us to Tengboche (12,687’) a small settlement perched on a hillside on the south side of Ama Dablam. The lodge and monastery had an incredible view of Ama Dablam, Everest, and Lhotse.
Entering the Tengboche Monastery two Buddhist monks played conch shells (blown into like a horn) from the second story window of the monastery notifying all monks to gather for afternoon prayers. Bart and I removed our shoes and followed the monks into the monastery. Following prostrations, one of the monks beat the drum once, followed by two other monks clashing cymbals together. Tengboche Rinpoche (who is the head monk or abbot at the monastery) led the monks in chants of mantras (prayers). Sitting in rows they recited from long texts opened on low prayer tables while slowly rocking back and forth. In-between mantras the monks clashed cymbals together, rang bells, and blew horns. Following a couple hours of mantras, a monk passed out bagels, bread, chocolate, popcorn, and butter tea to everyone (including visitors).
Khumjung School House and Monastery
This afternoon we visited the School House in the Clouds – first school in Everest Region – built by Sir Edmund Hillary 1961. Sir Edmund Hillary wanted to repay the Sherpa people of Nepal for their help and generosity during his ascent up Everest. He asked them what they desired most and their answer was schools. An old Sherpa said: “Our children have eyes, but they are still blind.” Sir Edmund Hillary also helped them build water systems and hospitals. The children were playing in the schoolyard located next to the barren hillside when we arrived. “Children will walk for up to 2 ½ hours each way to attend this school”, our guide told us.
Leaving the school we visited Khumjung Monastery. A monk welcomed us. He asked us to remove our shoes. Then I noticed that he was wearing his shoes. “Would you like to see the skull?” He asked us. Then he said, “you can take pictures first and then pay a donation.” He carefully opened a locked box and uncovered the skull. “This is the yeti,” the monk proudly said.
Namche Bazaar
Arriving back into Namche Bazaar two weeks later. It was deserted! The trekking season was coming to an end and most teahouse operators had closed up their places. We enjoyed hot cocoa by a heater while watching it snow outside.
We’ve just finished our trek and are back in Lukla. It’s been 19 days since we’ve taken a shower or slept in a bed. In return we saw the most dramatic mountain scenery (including the world’s tallest mountain), mingled with the sherpa people and gained a greater understanding of Buddhism. Hands down trip of a lifetime!
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